If you’ve pulled a chunky gold-tone necklace or a bold geometric brooch out of a jewelry box and found the word “NAPIER” stamped on the back, you’re holding a piece of one of the most prolific costume jewelry companies of the 20th century. Napier pieces turn up constantly at estate sales and thrift stores, and while most are affordable collectibles rather than four-figure finds, certain eras and styles command real money. This guide covers Napier’s history, how to date a piece by its mark, and what actually drives value.
A Brief History of the Napier Company
The company’s roots go back to 1875 in Attleboro, Massachusetts, where it began as a manufacturer of silver goods and men’s watch chains under earlier names including Whitney & Rice and later the E.A. Bliss Company. James H. Napier joined the firm in 1914 and became its president in 1920, at which point the company was renamed Napier-Bliss Co. In 1922, it became simply The Napier Company, the name collectors know today.
Napier shifted from silver novelties to costume jewelry after World War I, and design director James Napier’s 1925 trip to the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs in Paris pushed the company toward the bold, modern, European-influenced looks that became its signature. Through the 1920s and ’30s, Napier produced Egyptian-revival pieces with scarabs and pharaoh motifs, and by the 1950s and ’60s — its commercial peak — the company was known for large, sculptural gold- and silver-tone pieces, chunky link bracelets, and faux pearl and art-glass jewelry. Napier remained one of the largest American costume jewelry makers for decades before changing hands several times in the late 20th century; jewelry is still sold under the Napier name today, though contemporary pieces are unrelated to the vintage manufacturing quality collectors seek. For more on the company’s origins, see the Napier Company entry on Wikipedia.
How to Identify a Napier Mark by Era
Napier marked the overwhelming majority of its output, which makes dating pieces more reliable than with many costume houses. The mark itself, and how it was applied, changed over time:
| Approximate Era | Mark Style | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1920–1940s | “NAPIER” block letters, stamped or on a small oval plaque | Used from the 1920 name change onward; earlier pieces can be scarce and are prized by specialist collectors |
| 1942 onward | “By NAPIER” on presentation boxes | Boxed sets with this mark help confirm both authenticity and an approximate date range |
| Mid-1950s onward | “NAPIER” with a copyright symbol (©) | The copyright symbol is one of the most useful dating clues; it did not appear before roughly 1955 |
| 1960s–1980s | “NAPIER” in block or script, often on cartouche-style tags | The most commonly found mark on mid-century pieces still widely available today |
| 1990s onward | Various updated logos after ownership changes | Post-1999 pieces (after the company was sold and production moved overseas) are generally not considered vintage collectibles |
If you’re still unsure whether a piece is signed costume jewelry or something else entirely, our Costume Jewelry Marks & Signatures Guide walks through how to search and interpret marks from dozens of other makers, and the Costume Jewelry Identification Guide covers construction quality clues that apply even when a piece is unmarked.
What Napier Jewelry Is Actually Worth
Because Napier produced such enormous volume across six decades, most everyday pieces — simple gold-tone chains, basic clip earrings, plain link bracelets — sell in the $10 to $40 range even in good condition. Value climbs for pieces that check one or more of these boxes:
- Egyptian-revival designs from the 1920s and ’30s (scarabs, sphinxes, hieroglyph motifs)
- Figural pieces — animals, flowers, and novelty designs with fine detailing
- Large, sculptural statement pieces from the 1950s and ’60s, especially with complex articulation
- Complete boxed sets (necklace, bracelet, and earrings sold as a matched parure)
- Sterling silver Napier pieces, which the company produced in smaller volume than base-metal designs
- Pieces with unusual or short-lived design elements tied to a specific decade
Condition matters as much as design. Look for intact plating without heavy brassing (the copper-tone showing through worn gold plate), original clasps and findings rather than replacements, and stones or beads that are all present and undamaged. A piece with a crisp, legible mark and no missing components will consistently outsell an otherwise identical piece with a worn mark or replaced clasp.
Napier vs. Other Mid-Century Costume Makers
Napier’s aesthetic — bold, architectural, and often unset (relying on metalwork rather than rhinestones) — sets it apart from rhinestone-heavy makers of the same era. If you’re trying to work out whether a piece in hand is Napier or a competitor, our guides to Trifari and Coro cover the marks and design language of two of the makers most often confused with Napier at a glance, since all three companies were producing at massive scale through the same decades.
Building a Napier Collection
Because Napier’s output is so large and so consistently marked, it’s one of the more approachable entry points for a new costume jewelry collector — you can build a genuinely varied collection without competing for rare, expensive pieces. A focused approach tends to work better than accumulating at random: some collectors specialize in a single decade, others chase a specific design family such as Egyptian-revival or figural animal pieces, and others focus exclusively on complete boxed parures rather than single items. Whatever the focus, buying pieces in excellent original condition from the start pays off, since replating or repairing a Napier piece rarely makes financial sense given typical resale values. For general strategy on shaping a collection rather than just accumulating individual pieces, see our guide to building a vintage jewelry collection.
It’s also worth checking a piece’s construction against genuine gold or silver before assuming it’s costume jewelry at all — Napier did produce sterling silver lines, and some early pieces incorporated better materials than their later mass-market output. Our Real Gold vs. Costume Jewelry guide covers the quick tests worth running before you assume a piece is base metal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is all Napier jewelry valuable?
No. Napier produced enormous volumes of jewelry across six decades, and most everyday pieces are worth modest sums, typically under $40. Value is concentrated in Egyptian-revival pieces from the 1920s-30s, figural designs, complete boxed sets, and sterling silver examples.
How can I tell if my Napier piece is old or a modern reissue?
Check the mark style against the era table above, and inspect the construction. Vintage Napier pieces typically have heavier metal, riveted or soldered joints rather than glued components, and clasps consistent with the mark’s era (box clasps and fold-over clasps for earlier pieces, spring-ring or lobster clasps becoming common later).
Where can I sell Napier jewelry?
See our guide to selling vintage jewelry for a breakdown of marketplaces, and our Jewelry Value Guide for how to price a piece realistically before you list it.
